Givenchy Couture

After last fall, I had high hopes for Givenchy couture show and judging from these pictures the pieces were stunning as ever. Just like Lagerfeld, Riccardo Tisci chose to cover some items in bright colored sequins, and he also continued the geometrical prints of his Spring/Summer 2010 collection. I love it. Plus, I'm sucker for anything cape'y.

(pictures: imaxtree)

My all-time favorite Givenchy couture-piece still is this piece below, though. I'm not sure if I ever want to get married, but if I do, this dress will do just fine. (Fall 2009)






Suzy Menkes on the show.

Chanel Couture

Oh my. I just came across these highlights pictures of the Chanel couture show: Amazing, even if I am not a fan of pastel and peachy colors (on me that is). I am crazy about silver though!

The Telegraph puts my first thoughts into words: "There was not a Little Black Dress to be seen – and this from the house founded by “Coco” Chanel who invented the LBD, nearly 100 years ago."

All those lush silver embroideries remind me of 17th century fashion. Karl Lagerfeld himself -too- described the collection as 'neon-baroque'. The Haute Couture team must have had there hands full with this one. One can only admire their work, and the house of Chanel.

I love those big two-toned hairdo's btw.

Photo: Imaxtree

Check out Lagerfeld's matching gloves and tie!

Oh, and Suzy Menkes is right on Dior's Couture line, in my opinion. But it is Haute Couture, and therefor pre-1950 by definition maybe? (Since ready-to-wear and standardization took over at that time) Anyhow, I don't mind, I'ld love any full crinoline'sque skirt any day.

Note to self: Time for a change, stop your constant blogging on Dior and Chanel.

Chanel Flats

I need your opinion badly: What do you think about the classic Chanel two-toned ballerina flats?

I am in desperate need for some decent, simple flat shoes since one can not wear high heels all the time, nor show up in casual all stars. After doing some research online, I found out that they are approximately 600$, which is pretty pricy. So I was wondering: Are they worth it or should I spend my hard saved money on something else? Does any of you own a pair? Feedback, please!

I love the white/black combination, but since they'll get dirty pretty quickly, I prefer the grey/black ones.

-Some of my friends say these flats are horrible and granny-like, but I absolutely love mixing classic, luxurious pieces with trendy items (think: a big, chunky old-fashioned necklace with a faded t-shirt and ripped jeans). I'ld give these shoes a twist, don't worry.

Silent Chanel

Mr. Lagerfeld does it again: a silent film by Chanel!

Also, Chanel has a brand new site matching the Paris-Shanghai line

and short film, I told you about earlier. On the page you can find

behind the scenes video fragments starring the designer himself.

Milano

As a late Christmas gift, and a way to celebrate the end of the January-exams in my Master year, my boyfriend decided to take me shopping in Milan this upcoming week. I'm so excited. We leave friday morning at 6.20 AM so we'll be at the Quadrilatero d'Oro when the shops open.

We have been there several times by now, so we know the area quite well but I still want to ask you: Do you know any cool shops, besides the famous luxury brands?

YSL Film

Bruce Weber's film for YSL by Stefano Pilati.

Although the director apparently wanted to call it

"If You Don’t Want to be Nude, Wear a Suit", the models in the video prefer the first, instead of the latter, even if it is YSL.

More YSL-videos on YSL Manifesto.com.

The New York Times on this -quote on quote- 'fashionless film'.

McQueen Ad

As if Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2010-show wasn't crazy enough: I just found the latest ad campaign by the brand and it is definitely my favorite one this season. Top model Raquel Zimmermann covered in dozens of colorful snakes. You can hardly tell where the reptiles end and where McQueen's outfit begins. To top it off, the whole thing was shot by Nick Knight: Amazing symbiosis!

(source: House of Models)

Vogue US Editorial

Finally, my exams are over. I'm not going to make any statements on how it went, since I don't want to jinx it. Let's just forget about it until mid February (a.k.a. results).

Speaking about next month:

P. Diddy is trying to concur and get into the fashion world for a while now, and apparently he's got accepted. He stars along Natalia Vadianova in Vogue US' February Issue. Brief Encounter is shot by Annie Leibovitz.

(source)

Proenza Schouler

Okay, if there is one reason to start watching Franco-German TV-channels, this has to be it: Arte, in collaboration with Sundance Channel, have shot four fashion documentaries. The names of these fashion houses are huge: Fendi, Jean Paul Gaultier, Proenza Schouler and Sonia Rykiel!

The Fendi-piece was last week, so make sure to mark every thursday night (10PM) in your moleskin calendar! This is the teaser about the Proenza Schouler-duo I found online on the Arte-page. Oh and according to Belmodo.tv, my source for this one, the full episodes can be watched here after 7 days, in cased you happened to miss one.

I'm so excited!

Update: I just realized that the day after the Proenza Schouler-

documentary airs, I have to catch a plane heading towards

Milan at 6AM. Will hurt, for sure.

Prada Short Film

It is not the first time that Prada launches a short film. Remember the Trembled Blossoms animation for Spring/Summer 2008?

This time, Prada leaves the colourful fairyland behind and heads for Shanghai in black and white, with this new project called First Spring. -Made the link with the Chanel short films as well?

I haven't had the time to finish viewing the piece, since I'm too busy studying for the HCI exam on thursday. But don't let that hold you back: Enjoy.

Dior Music Video 2

Finally found that Dior music video online! It is called The Eyes of Mars, and as stated before Marion Cotillard sings this song written by Franz Ferdinand.

Still don't know what to think about it. Maybe I expected something else of a Dior song, maybe it will grown on me...

Oh, and I wish it had a proper music video as well.

Dior Music Video

Yesterday the first music video by Dior would premiere online, as I stated before. So I checked ladydior.com more than regularly. I found the making of-video and the first campaign images, but no music video!

What happened? Is it online somewhere else?

Shark Attack 2

Yesterday evening my sister was browsing teletext, when she started laughing and said: "Look what's on tonight!". Apparently the movie that was about to start, was called Shark Attack 2. I had no idea that this was the name of a film, but I do find it quite funny though. We watched for about 10 minutes when we agreed with imdb.com; this isn't the best shark movie.

Btw. More film related news: The Alice in Wonderland-jewelry line by Stella McCartney at Shark Attack 1. Click on both our Alice tags below to find more on collection inspired by Tim Burton's upcoming movie.

Dior Film 2

I just found the making of-video of Lady Rouge, the second Dior short film -or is it the music video?- I told you about the other day.

Proenza Schouler

The neon touch I loved in Balenciaga's Spring 2010 collection, pops up in other fashion shows as well, like for instance at Proenza Schouler. I know that the video and images of the show have been online since September 2009, but I just can't seem to get over Hernandez and McCollough's work. Maybe because it reminds me of some McQueen prints and folds in his Plato's Atlantis-collection? -I think PS version is more wearable though, no?

I can't wait to see the collection in stores, and since there is only one store in Belgium that retails Proenza Schouler I really hope they carry the follow items:

(Pictures: Marcio Madeira)

Note to self: You are not allowed to buy a new Proenza Schouler-dress until you start wearing the one you got last year...

Chanel Short Film

It seems like Chanel too is aiming for the haute couture goes short film-crown. It has only been a while since word got out about the Dior/David Lynch collaboration, and now -according to Dossier- no-one other than mastermind Martin Scorsese shot a commercial for Chanel. Location: Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

Great things are about to come.

Edit: The actor and model starring in this project, according to Chic Report.

It Happened One Night

Through many films, Hollywood acts as a 'dream maker'. Movies might offer its public the wish to want something more in their lives like e.g. a prince charming by their side or a more exciting life. Fashion films do not differ in this aspect, since they often are based on the Cinderella-motive and the viewer -along with the main character- dreams of a job in the fashion world or a closet filled with the latest trends.

Al though It Happened One Night (1934) is usually classified as a romantic comedy -in stead of a fashion film-, this movie had a great influence on fashion at that time. In the scene where Clark Gable is getting ready to go to bed, he undresses only to reveal that he is not wearing an undershirt, which allegedly caused the sales of the undergarments to drop. I still need to investigate this fact properly for my thesis, but this is what IMDB states:

"While shooting the scene where he undresses, Clark Gable had trouble removing his undershirt while keeping his humorous flow going and took too long. As a result the undershirt was abandoned altogether. It then became cool to not wear an undershirt which resulted in a large drop in undershirt sales around the country. Legend has it that in response, some underwear manufacturers tried to sue Columbia."

How is this connected with Hollywood's Dreams Can Come True-policy, you might think? The female viewer might never get married to the movie star, but she could however get herself a man who did not wear undershirts.

Gable starts undressing around 1:45 min.

Burberry

Yesterday I took a break from studying, so that my boyfriend and I could enjoy ourselves in the snow. Over the past couple of days, it has snowed tremendously, so I layered up my outfit with extra stockings underneath my leggings and some ear-warmers. Besides a woolen scarf, I added an old fur collar/scarf* -from another jacket- to my Burberry trench coat. Not only is such an item extra warm, it also gives a 'plain' coat a luxurious touch.

Today, I was browsing the Burberry-website -as I do quite regularly- when I came across this double breasted long trench with a fur collar. I believe that the scarf I wore is equally fluffy and long -I tucked it into my coat to keep me warmer. And so, I apparently own 2 versions of the same trench, without spending the extra money.

* = When I say fur, I mean that I'm still not quite sure if it's real or not. I most certainly hope not, and I have no idea how such an item would find itself in a house where my sister talks about animal rights 24/7. The Burberry-collar on the other hand, is definitely real.

I want one: Buberry meets Colette, check out the studded collar!

Oh, and I finally got the chance to hit the stores during the sales. My dad took my sister and I shopping before we went out to dinner, and bought me this grey T-shirt, which has a silvery shimmering effect. Al tough this Rue Blanche-shirt -a store I actually entered for the second time ever- is quite basic, it has a rock 'n roll-effect to it. So I'll probably be wearing it all the time from now on.

Balenciaga

I just finished up studying my Costume & Fashion-course, finally. Unfortunately the reader ends with Vivienne Westwood's work in the eighties and many of my favorite designers were only mentioned briefly in the book.

How can one explain Balenciaga's oeuvre in just 4 sentences?

Luckily, I atended every class, so I have some killer notes on Cristóbal Balenciaga.

Dior Film

I have posted many Chanel short films, when I started this blog. But I actually prefer the Dior one, since it was very professionally done and reminded me of a film noir. Last year, Dior launched a series of extra-long commercials, starring Marion Cotillard and off course many luxurious items of the French couture house, such as the Lady Dior -since that's the bag the saga is about. (no subtle product placement here, but who cares...)

Rumor goes that David Lynch will be directing the second chapter called The Lady Rouge. Again a great example of how film and fashion interact, creatively as well as commercially. And once again, great thesis-material. I can't wait to study the sequel for my upcoming chapters.

So here is part one, if you missed it by any chance last year.

Oh and I demand Marion's strappy heels.

PS: On January 14th, the first Dior music video will premiere. The

song called Lady Rouge -off course!- is written by Franz Ferdinand

and Nine-star Marion C.will be singing it. (WWD)

Can't wait.

Update: Galliano on Lady Noire.

Vogue

While studying fashion through the 19th century, I came across this old Vogue-cover from 1919. Even though the illustration is a 'close up', you can immediately tell that the girl was an early adopter of the garçonne look, which was introduced by Coco Chanel during the Roaring Twenties.

The illustration is by Georges Lepape, who also did the artwork for Paul Poiret, featuring his "robe à la minute" (1912-1914). As you can tell, this is a simple 'tube'-dress with short sleeves and very narrow around the ankles and in which no corset was needed. Both Poiret as Chanel are considered as the fashion designers who liberated women from tight undergarments.

Marie Antoinette

It is after nine o'clock here in Belgium and I've just finished up studying my Costume and Fashion-course up until the 1840's. And it's a lot of terminology. I'm making an excel sheet out of my slides and course book, and it has up to 27 pages. It's a whole lot, I say!

One of my favorite parts in the reader is the evolution of Marie Antoinette's style (1755-1793). As you all know of Copolla's movie, women back then wore big panniers "à coudes" or "à la commodité" -since you could rest your elbows on it- under their dresses to give them extra volume on the sides. The queen of France combined it with a robe à l'anglaise with golden tassels in the picture below.

Elizabeth Vigée-Lebrun, Marie Antoinette, 1778

Wenen, Kunsthistorisches Museum

Those side hoops were incredibly wide when it came to outfits for exclusive events. Just check out the width of this dress. And I always claimed that women were dressed so much better back then.

Coronation costume of Sophia Madeleine, 1772

Stockholm, Livrustkammaren

Luckily, she did not wear only clothes that made women look like deformed monsters. One of my personal late 18th century looks is this 'robe redingote'. Since the dress is derived of the men's riding coat, it has a cute broad collar that falls over the shoulders.

Marie-Antoinette in robe redingote, ca. 1780

Linköping, Ostergotlandslansmuseum

Since Marie-Antoinette wished to escape from her pressured life at the palace of Versailles, she fled towards the simple, rural country life, which in this case means getting your own private cottages on the domain itself.

In order for her to be a typical 'farm girl', she wore a "robe en chemise". As you can tell, it's a white, loose dress with a loosely pleaded collar and a deep neckline. A ribbon was tied around her waist. She made her country look complete with a straw hat, but however embellished it with ostrich feathers and luxurious ribbons, so that it would be fit for a queen. Although the portrait of Marie-Antoinette, by LeBrun, caused a riot at the Salon of 1783, the dress was an instant hit and was copied by wealthy damsels all over Europe.

By Elizabeth Vigée-LeBrun, 1781

Enough clothes for me today. If you wish to see a cool mood board inspired by the French queen, make sure to check out Insomnia's blog. She has done a great job.

More info on 18th Century-fashion, and portraits, here.

Balenciaga

When I saw the video of Balenciaga's last fashion show, I immediately fell in love with: 1. that first hoodie-look down the runway, 2. the hidden, subtle neon fabric in the pleats and 3. the neon make-up. I could not remember the zipper/stripped mini-dresses, until I saw the new ad campaign, which is remarkable composition wise. However, it will have to grow on me, since I'm still more obsessed with the other items in the show.

More Steven Meisel-pictures please, marketing team!

(source Women Management)

McQueen on Barbie

If I -by any chance- still played with my Barbies, I would loose those boring housewife outfits and give her a pair of McQueen shoes. I once heard about a study that said that if she was a real woman, she would not be able to walk due to her strange proportions. Well, let's give her something else she will have trouble with moving in.

You'll find other Gaga-inspired Barbie-outfits by Veik on Refinery 29.

Armani'can Gigolo

My dad already is a great help in finding valuable sources for my Fashion/Film-thesis, since he found me an important article on the subject. The piece primarily focusses on Anna Wintour, and her direct and indirect influence on films and Hollywood. The September Issue is only one example.

In that documentary creative director Grace Coddington states that fashion has become entertainment, which will probably support the outcome of my hypothesis. Film and fashion go hand in hand since the beginning of the 20th century and this synergy has worked out for many designers, such as Hubert de Givenchy who collaborated intensively with Audrey Hepburn for various projects. Another designer that had the best of both worlds is Giorgio Armani.

The article compares him with Wintour. She was the first to put Hollywood stars on the cover, while Armani was the first to dress them up for red carpet-events. In my first chapter however, I mention him as a costume designer for numerous films such as Miami Vice and the gangsters in The Untouchables. Armani's relationship with film is most prominent -in my opinion- in American Gigolo. The opening shot of the movie says it all: Richard Gere goes out for the perfect date-outfit.

Below, you'll find the trailer of this 80's movie.

That voice-over is hilarious.

Dior

Maison Chaplin posted a message the other day that Dior recently opened their first watches/jewelry store in Geneva. And if you check their latest collections on the Dior Fine Jewelry-website, you'll probably be dying to see the store's windows and what's inside them.

The blog post by Maison Chaplin, inspired me to pull out an old Dior necklace of ours and hopefully wear it more often. I got it a couple of years ago at Loja Das Meias, a very nice multi-brand store in Lisbon. I think such a fun and floral accessory will give any serious, all-black outfit an extra touch. No idea what kind of material or series this particular necklace is, but if I remember properly, it didn't cost that much. So, if you spot any -online e.g.-, please get back to me.

Edit: Yes, Sis', I do am jealous of your new Burberry trench!

Cinema

The other day we all went to the movies to see Cameron's Avatar, when my sister spotted the poster of Alice In Wonderland! And off course we had to take a sneaky picture. The quality of the photograph is low, due to the poor lighting at the cinema complex, I know, but I just had to share this.

I have pictures of all four posters, but their quality is even worse, so I checked imdb.com and you can find the Mad Hatter-versions there.

In case you are wondering how Avatar was, well, you shouldn't go see it for the interesting story, since it lacks just that. However, thumbs up to the special effects/graphics team. The world of Pandora looked magical, even though little 3D effects were incorporated -in my opinion. The whole scenery reminded me of one of my favorite platform games of all time: Rayman.

Rayman fragment vs. shot of Pandora

Anyhow, enough about video games. Tomorrow I'm finally starting to

study my Costume and Fashion course, and I'm pretty sure that with

every page I turn, I'll have plenty of material to put up a new post here.

I'm excited.